What is Lyocell Fabric and is it Sustainable?
If you’re searching for the sustainable superstar of fabrics then Lyocell (and especially TENCEL™, more on that later) should be atop your list. However, its accolades go far beyond the realm of sustainability. Being silky smooth lyocell feels great against skin, drapes beautifully, is lightweight, highly breathable, antimicrobial, moisture wicking, and is wrinkle resistant. It’s little wonder why it has been hailed as a “miracle fabric”.
How is lyocell made
Since lyocell is derived from cellulose (i.e. trees) it is both sustainable and organic, with the most common sources being eucalyptus, bamboo, and beech as these are fast growing varieties that do not require irrigation or pesticides and are often grown on land that is otherwise unsuitable for alternative uses. After harvesting, the wood is chipped and immersed in a solvent to extract raw cellulose before being passed through spinnerets that elongate the fibers. These fibers are then washed, dried, cut, carded and spun into yarn that’s ultimately woven into a fabric.
What is lyocell’s environmental impact
Lyocell is arguably the most eco-friendly fabric. Not only is it sourced from organic and renewable sources, but it is processed via a low energy, low water, closed-loop system that recycles over 99.5% of the chemicals/solvents used in production, with the remaining 0.5% discharged as non-hazardous effluent. Furthermore, the fabric is highly durable (it is used in conveyor belts) and thus long lasting. And when your product’s time has come you have nothing to worry about as it is 100% biodegradable. Also, as noted above, the trees used for lyocell do not require pesticides, fertilizers, or irrigation.
The difference between Lyocell and Tencel
This is a good time to differentiate between lyocell and TENCEL™, for although they are nearly identical in process and feel, TENCEL™ is the more sustainable fabric. TENCEL™ is a branded form of lyocell by the respected Austrian company Lenzing AG, which is an industry leader in sustainability and who ensure that their trees are sourced from sustainably managed non-GMO woodlots.
Pros and Cons of Tencel/lyocell
Pros
Breathable: Lyocell is highly breathable, even more than fabrics like cotton.
Fabric texture: Silky smooth, drapes well and is soft, lightweight, and comfortable against the skin.
Moisture wicking: Has great moisture wicking properties, which will keep you dry, fresh and comfortable. An ideal fabric for summer.
Biodegradable: Lyocell is fully biodegradable as the manufacturing process is free from harmful by-products.
Durable: The fabric is strong and long-lasting and does not wrinkle easily.
Great for sensitive skin: The fabric does not rub or chafe and is ideal for those who suffer from eczema or dermatitis, or anyone who loves the feeling of silk.
Antibacterial: Due to its capacity to manage moisture lyocell does not hold odors like performance activewear and thus it’s suitable for multiple wears between washes, which saves water and energy.
Cons
Cost: Lyocell/Tencel is more expensive than cotton due to the technology used in its processing
Limited dye retention: due to lyocell’s low surface energy it is challenging to adhere some dyes.
In short, if you’re looking to invest in an environmentally friendly garment that looks and feels great, especially in the summer, then you cannot do much better than Tencel/lyocell.